Guitar Stuff Music Store - Rockingham, N.C. 910-895-1099Guitar Stuff Music Store - Rockingham, N.C. 910-895-1099Guitar Stuff Music Store - Rockingham, N.C. 910-895-1099Guitar Stuff Music Store - Rockingham, N.C. 910-895-1099Guitar Stuff Music StoreGuitar Stuff Music Store - Rockingham, N.C. 910-895-1099Guitar Stuff Music Store - Rockingham, N.C. 910-895-1099Guitar Stuff Music StoreGuitar Stuff Music Store - Rockingham, N.C. 910-895-1099Guitar Stuff Musi> <HR><H3>Transfer interrupted!</H3> 099Guitar Stuff Music StoreGuitar Stuff Music Store - Rockingham, N.C. 910-895-1099Guitar Stuff Music Store - Rockingham, N.C. 910-895-1099Guitar Stuff Music StoreGuitar Stuff Music Store

Keeping your Voilin or Fiddle in top condition.

Violins are very fragile. Never leave your instrument in a warm/hot car, garage, near heating vents or in direct sunlight. Doing so will warp top,back, and/or sides, loosen glue joints, bubble the varnish and result in a permanently damaged instrument.

It is best to handle your instrument by the neck. The oils from our skin attract dust and rosin to the varnish. Remove rosin dust from top of instrument after each use. It is best to keep your violin dust-free with a soft, dry cloth. If you get oil or wax on the strings or bow hair the violin will not play correctly. If you must clean and polish the violin be very careful not to get any polish on the strings, or bow hair. Never use alcohol or furniture oils to polish your violin. Wash the cloth regularly. Dirt and rosin can build up on the cloth and scratch the finish. Be careful not to get polish inside of your instrument. This will warp the bare wood.

The best, and only, way to clean your bow hair is to use denatured alcohol and Kleenex. Denatured alcohol can be bought in hardware or paint stores. Do not use rubbing alcohol, as most rubbing alcohol’s have baby oil or soap and other added ingredients that you don’t want on the bow hair. Try not to handle bow hairs with your fingers. Wear rubber gloves if available. Hand oils will lessen the effect of rosin. Separate the hair from the bow and clean hair. Alcohol will damage or remove varnish from the stick, so let the hair dry before attaching to stick. After the hair dries tighten the bow and rosin. Cleaning will help the hair to last for years. Always loosen the bow (3-4 turns) before putting it away. Wash and dry your hands thoroughly before each session to prolong string life.

Keep an eye on the bridge. During use, the bridge can begin to tilt. Keeping the bridge straight will reduce the chance of damage to the bridge or top of the violin.

Never store books/music or other foreign items in your case. This is a major cause of instrument damage.

Remember, if your instrument develops any serious problem or if you are not sure about certain repairs, it is always best to seek out a qualified repair person to maintain and repair your instrument.

The tips below can be applied to many types of cables - instrument, microphone, speaker, patch, ..etc.

Keep the connectors clean. The contact points of your cables should be cleaned to reduce corrosion. Tools and supplies needed: A clean cotton cloth, q-tips and rubbing alchohol. A small amount of alchohol is needed to help keep the contact points of the connectors clean. Alchohol evaporates quickly and will not harm the connectors.

Cables will get stepped on . There is no way to prevent this from happening. You can help prolong the life of the cables by making sure that the "kinks" and knots are removed from your cables. As "kinks" and knots are stepped on, the cable can be crimped and damaged.

Also, try to keep audio cables and power cords separate. Continuois over-lapping of power cords and audio cables can cuase interference with your audio signal.

Whether you are inside or outside, the cables will get dirty. Grass, dirt, dust, food...etc will get on the cables. When you are finished with a gig, take the time to wipe off the cables before wrapping and storing. Keeping a roll of papertowels or baby wipes to keep your cables clean.

There are many methods used for wrapping or coiling cables for storage. On of the most effectives methods, especially for long cables, is the over-under technique. Over-under technique is the process of coiling the cable, by alternating each wrap. It is all in the wrist! The first wrap is normal. Then during the second wrap, twist the cable keeping the same size coil. The Over-under technique is much eisier to explain in person.

Does your maple fretboard have dark smudges on it? Is there a funky buildup around your frets? Below are a few maintenance suggestions that you can use the next time you change strings.

After you remove your strings, use a paper towel or shop towel soaked with naphtha or lighter fluid to rub the fretboard to remove the build up around the frets. If necessary, use the toothbrush to get along the edge of the frets. Do not over saturate the fretboard with the cleaning fluid.

After the naphtha or lighter fluid has evaporated, cover the fretboard with masking tape. Make sure that the fret wire is still exposed. You may also want to tape the body around the neck and the neck pickup. (I will explain why later in this section.)

After the fretboard and surrounding areas has been taped, use the 500 grit sandpaper to clean the fret wire. Be careful not to rush during this process. If you loose control while sanding the fret wire, you could slip and hit the body of the guitar or damage the nut.

After you have touched each of the frets with the sandpaper, you can remove the tape from the fretboard. Do not remove the tape from the body around the neck or the pickup. Now you can use the steel wool to polish the frets and fretboard. The steel wool will leave small particles while in use. These small particle, being steel, will collect around the pickup. Now you understand why the pickup is taped. After you are satisfied with the polishing job. you can use a clean paper towel to remove the steel particles from the fretboard and surrounding areas. Now, you can remove the rest of the masking tape.

On Rosewood fretboards: complete the process, use a small amount of lemon oil or linseed oil to restore the moisture to the neck that evaporated with the cleaning fluids.

On maple fretboards, use guitar polish or wax to shine the fretboard. No oil or treaments are needed on lacquered fretboards.

Instrument cases are designed to protect your instrument during transportation and storage. Some case companies do advertise that their cases are rugged and durable. This does not mean that they are indestructible. Below are some No, no'sconcerning your instrument case (especially when the instrument is in it!)

Do not use the case as a writing desk or a prop for working on other projects. The case could easily slip off of your lap or whatever it is sitting own and the instrument inside could be damaged.

Please do not sit on the case. Trumpet and saxophone cases are just the right size to be used as a bench or stool. Most cases are not designed to withstand the weight of most people. The case can become warped and will not function properly

You case is designed to carry your instrument and sometimes a small amount of supplies. Gym clothes, school books, your lunch..etc should not be inside the case with your instrument. Anything placed inside the case should be secured and not allowed to shift inside the case to avoid damaging the instrument.

We do not encourage violence by all means. However, if you are forced to "put the smack down" on someone, do not use your instrument case as a weapon. You could cause more damage to the instrument than you could another person.

Woodwind reeds are very fragile and should be handled carefully. A reed with a small split or tear will not perform properly.

New reeds are usually dry and should be moistened before playing. Most players will lick the reed to moisten it. This works, but is not the most sanitary method. Saliva enzymes or bacteria can damage the structural fibers of the cane.

We suggest that you use a small glass of water or a running water from a fountain to wet the reed. Do not over moisten the reed. A water-logged reed can become too soft and hard to play.

When you install the reed, hold the reed from the bottom, not the blade or thin section. Be careful not to damage the reed when you slide on the ligature. Take your time to get the reed aligned properly and tighten the ligature to hold it in place. Do not over tighten the ligature. You can warp the reed and possibly strip the ligature screws.

Make sure that you remove the reed and store it in a reed case when not in use. The moister from playing can make the reed stick to the mouthpiece and damage the reed. Also, the germs that can hide between the reed and the mouthpiece is not a pleasant thought.

If possible rinse the reed and dry it after playing. Periodically rinse your mouthpiece to remove any residue from playing.

Soldering iron or gun? You do not want to use any type of soldering devise with an on off switch. The switch can produce its own magnetic field that can demagnetize your pickups.

An iron is recommended to use. 30 watts will be plentiful when soldering guitar electronics. Irons with higher wattage can heat the components, especially potentiometers, too much and damage the ceramic element inside.

Do not use too much solder. You need a small bead of solder to hold the wires onto the terminals. You do not need to spread solder on the terminal.

Let the solder cool on its own. Do not "blow" on the solder bead to make it set faster. The solder will harden prematurely and you may not get a good seal between the ire and the terminal.

There are a few good reasons to remove the drum heads from your kit. One obvious reason is to replace the head. If your sticks look like beavers have been chewing on them, then you may also want to remove the head to clean the rim and lugs.

Using your drum key (please do not use any type of pliers) loosen each tension rod on the drum. Place each lug into a small container of grease removing dishwashing liquid or "Simple Green" cleaning liquid. This will remove any grease and dirt from the tension rods.

Now remove the rim from the drum. You will probably notice the dirt and sawdust that has settled inside the rim. Clean the rim with window cleaner or mild soapy water. After you remove the head, you should also wipe down the inside head or bearing edge of the shell.

Take this time to clean the outside of the shell and the lugs. Use some q-tips and alcohol to clean the inside of the lug casings. You can also apply paraffin wax to the bearing edge to make the new drum head slide smoothly in place when you place the rim back in place.

Now remove the tension rods from the cleaning liquid. Dry off each lug with an old towel or t-shirt. When you are ready to insert each tension rod in place, apply a small drop of 3 in 1 Oil on the end of the rod. This will help reduce additional corrosion and keep the threads clean.

A common question that we get is, “How can I make my strings last longer?" The combination of moisture and dead skin from your fingers can cause the strings to loose their brightness. The moisture from your fingers causes the strings to corrode. The dead skin can get “wedged” between the coils of the wound strings and cause these strings to loose sustain and brightness. Sometimes I ask how long have the strings been on the guitar. Some people try to get 6 months to one year per set. This is almost impossible with the climate that we live in. The humidity is so high that the strings will corrode without being played. Below are a few tips that will make you strings last longer:

I get a lot of trumpets in for repairs on “sticky” valves. Believe it or not, but too much valve oil is usually the problem. Excessive use of valve oil can cause dirt to build up on the valve. The extra valve oil will drain into the slide, collect the “gunk” and move it into the valve casing.

I recommend that you remove your valves at least once each month. Use a shop towel or flannel cloth to remove the old valve oil from the valves. Cheesecloth is best to use inside the valve casing to remove old oil and particles that have built up.

After you have cleaned and dried the valves and valve casings remove the bottom caps and inspect the casing and valves for addition buildup or dirt particles that can scratch the valves. Once you have inspected and cleaned the valves and casings, apply a small amount (three or four drops) of valve oil to the valve and insert them into the appropriate casing. Before you screw on the bottom caps, clean the inside where old oil and “gunk” can also build up. When you get everything installed and tightened you are ready to play.

**Note: You should never apply valve oil from the bottom of the valve. This will loosen up any built up “gunk” and will cause more problems. Always remove the valve from the top of the casing and apply the oil directly to the piston (the part with the holes).

A swab is a very inexpensive item that can save you big money later. Protecting the pads on your clarinet is very important.

Whilst playing the instrument, use a swab frequently (every 10 – 15 minutes). If water collects in the tone holes, bubbling and swelling of pads with consequent leakage will badly affect the performance. If so, dry pads with a dollar bill or cigarette paper.

Note: Pass a swab through the barrel towards the bell. Otherwise, it can be caught by a tube protruding inwardly in the upper part of the top joint.

When the swab is soiled, replace it with a new one. If a solid or a fluffy one resulting from over washing is used, dust may collect in the tone holes.

Do not put a wet swab in the case together with the instrument. The wet swab may cause rust on the springs and the discoloration of the key work. A ziplock bag is recommend for storing swabs, corks grease, etc.

I do not know the answer to this question, but I can tell you how to remove the unwanted decals without damaging the finish.

Depending on how long the decal is on the guitar, you may be able to remove it by simply finding a loose corner and slowly pulling the sticker away from the instrument. Some decals are not as easy to remove. Do not try to scrap the decal with a razor blade or knife. This will only increase the chance of damaging the finish.

Stubborn decal can be removed by using Lighter Fluid or Naphtha. These fluids are good cleaners that evaporate before penetrating or breaking up the lacquer. Use a small cloth or a piece of an old t-shirt soaked with Lighter Fluid or Naphtha. Gently “pat’ the decal to spread the fluid through any tears and around the edges. As the decal absorbs the fluid, the glue will begin to release and the paper will start to rise. Continue to rub the decal with the cloth to remove pieces as the fluid works its magic. When you have completely removed all of the paper, you can continue to use the fluid to remove any glue residue that remains. Take you time and allow any extra fluid to evaporate as you rub off the decal.

I have also read where people have used a hair dryer to heat the decal a loosen the glue. This may work for solid body guitars, but you definitely do not want to heat up the top of an acoustic guitar. Not only will you loosen the glue on the decal, but you may loosen the glue on some of the bracing and damage the guitar.

Some people do not realize how delicate brass instruments can be. They think of brass as being a hard metal that can withstand abuse. Trumpets and trombones especially are very fragile instruments and need delicate care when cleaning. Below are a few cleaning tips for the brass finish and tubing.

NO! Brasso or related cleaners should not to be used on lacquered instruments. The lacquer is very thin and harsh cleaners will remove the finish. Use a clean flannel cloth, mild soap and warm water to clean you brass instrument. Do not use hot water.

"My tuning slides will not clean. They are black and look rusty. I used plenty of Vaseline to keep them from sticking."

Vaseline will damage the brass and make the slides turn black. Use only tuning slide grease. It is recommended to have a cloth just for cleaning your tuning slides. Occasionally wipe off the old grease and apply fresh grease to the slide. For trombone slide, use slide cream or slide oil.

Not only will it clean the horn, but it will probably rearrange a few slides. You can, however, bathe or horn.

First you want to remove all valves and felts before bathing the horn. Take this time to clean off all of the tuning slide oil and grease. Use luke-warm water and a mild soap (Dr. Dan's Cleaning Soap is recommended). Immerse the instrument into the water and let it soak for about 15 minutes. You will need a set of brushes (these vary depending on the type of instrument) to use to clean the tubing and valve casings. Do not use wire brushes or brillo pads to clean the outside of the instrument.

Once you have brushed to inside of the horn, remove from the water and rotate the instrument to pour out any water that may collect inside the tuning slides.

You can use a flannel cloth to dry the outside of the instrument. Do not use paper towels to dry the outside or inside of the instrument. Paper towels can scratch the finish or tear apart inside the horn leaving particles that may be trapped inside valves. Cheesecloth is good material to use to dry the inside of the instrument.

**NOTE: It is not recommended that you flush and bathe your instrument before a performance. Flush and clean the instrument two to three weeks prior to a performance. Actually once a month is recommended.

If you do not flush and bathe or instrument regularly, the "gunk" will build up inside the tubing. As the build up increases you need less air to fill the horn. When you clean the horn, it will take more air to fill the instrument. You may have difficulty hitting certain note that after bathing will require more air or a change in embouchure. This change can be horrifying if not realized until performance day.

A very important part of most guitars and basses is the truss rod located in the neck of the instrument. This rod is "bowed" to counteract the tension from the strings. The truss rod enables the neck to be adjusted against the tension of the strings to keep the fretboard straight. High action and bad intonation can be a result of a needed truss rod adjustment.

Even though the adjustments are very easy to perform, the truss rod should be adjusted very carefully. You can damage the neck, crack the fretboard or even break the truss rod if the adjustments are not made properly. It is suggested that the truss rod is adjusted 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn at a time to reduce unwanted stress on the neck and fretboard.

Where is the truss rod? The majority of guitars have a small cover, truss rod cover, behind the nut on the headstock. Some acoustic guitars are adjusted on the body send of the neck behind the soundhole. Some older Fenders electric guitars have the adjustment located where the pickguard meets the neck.

To fully understand the purpose of the truss rod, you can begin by inspecting the straightness of the fretboard. Use a straight edge placed between the strings in the middle of the fretboard to check for a "bow" or "warp". If the straight edge. There should be a small gap between the straight edge and the 7th fret. The gap should allow you to slide a business card, snug, between the 7th fret and the straight edge. If the gap is larger, then there is too much relief on the truss rod. The rod needs to be tightened (clockwise) to decrease the size of the gap and straighten the neck. If the gap is too small or the straight edge "rocks" on the 7th fret, then the truss rod does not have enough relief and needs to be loosed (counter-clockwise) to straighten the neck. Some players like very low, fast action and prefer to have the neck perfectly straight, no gap at all. this is fine. You may experience string buzzing, however, if the distortion is cranked and the volume is on "10" the buzzing is not noticeable.

The truss rod is very important the the playability of the guitar. Please be careful when making these adjustments.